Lutherans at 500

Lutherans celebrate Reformation Sunday the last Sunday of October because it was October 31, 1517 that Martin Luther posted his 95 theses on the door of All Saints' Church in Wittenberg, Germany. 498 years ago. As you might imagine, there are all kinds of celebrations and commemorations as we approach the 500^th anniversary. This well-known painting of Martin Luther was painted by Cranach in about 1515.

First, a brief summary of the “reformation.” Martin Luther was a monk who studied and taught theology. He wanted to be a good Christian, which at the time meant a good Catholic. He never wanted to leave the Catholic Church but, from his study of the Bible, he thought the church was mistaken in some of its teachings and sought to correct the error. Catholics believe the when we die, good people go straight to heaven, bad to hell, and most everyone goes to purgatory – a place in between where they wait to become good enough for heaven. Prayers and masses for the dead can speed up that process. In Luther's time, the church taught that good works on earth and those done by others on our behalf could also help. Good works often involved giving money to the church. This was a time of major cathedral building which was very expensive. In 1516 the pope offered the sale of indulgences to help fund the construction of cathedral. Indulgences were certificates bought to get souls out of purgatory.

Luther wrote a scholarly paper entitled, "Disputation of Martin Luther on the Power and Efficacy of Indulgences" asking for clarification and correction of theological teachings that were not bibilically based. (He may or may not have ever posted this document, which is better know as the 95 theses, on the door of the church in Whittenberg.) The result of his paper and its dessimination was a split with the church (in time) as Luther was ex-communicated, or thrown out of the church. The protestors became protestants. Luthers followers eventually became Lutherans – the first of many protestants.

(Note: Luther presented a theological challenge leading to a split. Previously, “from 1378 to 1417, several men simultaneously claimed to be the true pope. Driven by politics rather than any theological disagreement, the schism was ended by the Council of Constance (1414–1418).” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Schism)

Luther's challenge and split became widely known because the printing press had recently been invented. Copies of the 95 theses were printed in 1518 and were widely circulated. The printing press also greatly aided Luther's work as he translated the Bible into German (and others translated it into other languages).

Nowadays, we acknowledge that Luther was a product of his times. He was, for example, vocally anti-semitic – maybe even more than those around him. Hitler used this part of his teaching to justify his actions during World War II. Still, Luther's main theses are as important and clear today as they were 500 years ago: people are saved by grace alone (not good works), that we must trust in faith alone, and the Bible is the only yardstick by which we measure all teachings and actions. Words of hope. Teachings of inclusion.

Other practices became common place because of Luther: the mass or liturgy in the language of the people, Bibles translated into the languages of the people, other teaching materials, such as the large and small catechisms, written and used (in the people's languages), the belief that people could go directly to God in prayer without the intermediary of a priest, priests (later called pastors) who were/are permitted to marry, etc.

So, it is little surprise that Lutherans worldwide, and especially in Germany, are commemorating the 500^th anniversary of the reformation (or the start of it...). Lutherans in Germany are celebrating the decade of the reformation from 2008 to 2017. “Exhibitions, concerts, church services, festivals and theatre productions will highlight the importance of the Reformation and the role Martin Luther played in the places he lived and worked." Each year has a theme. (www.luther-in-thueringen.com/en/the-luther-decade.html. Luther can also now be purchased as a small action figure!

The Lutheran World Federation (LWF) is sponsoring a project to get women to tell their stories – about the past reformation and the ongoing one. See https://www.lutheranworld.org/content/resource-women-move-wittenberg-windhoek-toolkit for more information.

 

Many tourists are visiting Wittenberg and other sites that were important in Luther's life. Lots of restoration and renovation has/is happening. Did you know that Wittenberg is in what was formerly known as Eastern Germany and was for many years "behind the iron curtain"?

I started thinking about the reformation not only because of the Sunday we use to remember it but because of President Ndanga-Toué's visit to Europe. As the newly elected president of the EEL-RCA the Lutheran World Federation invited him and other new church leaders to meetings/seminars in Geneva. Part of this program included visits to some sites in Germany. Churches and organizations worldwide are planting 500 trees to commorate the 500^th anniversary of the reformation. The Evangelical Lutheran Church – Central African Republic has sponsored tree number 293 in Luthergarten in Wittenberg. Here are some pictures of President Ndanga-Toué planting and watering the tree along with the certificate he received. (I heard the story in Garoua Boulai as the president was headed back to Bouar, CAR. He agreed that I could help spread the word about his trip and their tree.)

President Ndanga-Toué stayed in Germany after the LWF event to meet with EEL-RCA's partner OLM (the German Lutheran Church). He said he got to see even more sites important in Luther's life and work.

Reformation work still continues. Human arrogance and error tends to distort beliefs as they are turned into “religion” and institutionalized. We need to continue to go to the Bible as we work to correct all errors – even Luther's.

Happy 500^th anniversary! (almost)

Update: I am in Yaoundé to apply for a new passport and am taking advantage of the time to buy supplies for myself and others. My new screen door in Garoua Boulai is made and installed. I am adapting to my borrowed computer (and have installed programs and updated everything I could think of). Life is going back to normal, whatever that is.

The security situation in CAR is still difficult, in fact, worse in Bangui. Travel on the roads is a challenge although it is better between Garoua Boulai and Bouar if travelers go with the UN military escort. Elections have be re-rescheduled for December and January (first and second rounds). However, peace and security need to be much more firmly established for them to be successful.

Plans are moving ahead for Pope Francis' visit to Bangui in November. Maybe his presence will add weight to the peace work being done by Central African religions leaders – Catholic, Protestant, and Muslim.

Learning from Thefts

Have you ever been robbed?  I have and as I reflect on it, I have been robbed more than my share of times over my lifetime. Since it happened again last week, I decided to write about what I have learned. Maybe you can take advantage of my experiences!

Who gets robbed? Someone who has something of value, or perceived value, to someone else. The first time a thief found me was when I was studying in Paris in 1976. I had gone to the park with some fellow students and we didn't watch our stuff well enough. The person took my wallet – which had my passport in it too. I had to go through the hassle of getting a new passport – then, a month later, my old passport found its way back to me. Obviously what interested the thief was my money. From that, I learned to keep my money separate – in a separate wallet with id buried deeper in the purse and harder to get to.

That lesson served me well when I was traveling at the end of my studies. In the press to get on a train, a thief took my wallet out of my backpack – which was on my back. A pickpocket in the crush of the crowd. At least he only got some money! Lesson learned: keep your backpack locked and/or in front of you. I know someone can cut a backpack easily enough or take the whole thing, but pickpockets look for easy touches. Let them find someone else! I still travel with a small padlock on my backpack and even use it sometimes.

I want to state upfront that I am cautious of my “stuff” by nature. I have lived in big cities most of my life so none of this leaving the door open or unlocked when I am not near that door. Still, shortly after I bought the house I still own in Pittsburgh, I was robbed – twice. The house is on the corner of a main street and an alley. My side porch, on the alley, is set in such a way that no one can see the porch except those in the alley and someone in the kitchen of the house across the street. (I often took advantage of that – lying in a hammock on that porch looking up at the neighbor's trees imagining I was in a park...) But, this arrangement means that a thief can be on the side porch and few will notice. One day while I was at work, my neighbor saw suspecious activity on my porch. She called the police who came. They would not go into the house, though, since I was not home and they could see nothing – except a shovel in the living room. (That's what the thief used to break the window lock and get in.) Nothing taken then, but not long after the thief was back. We think he was after money for drugs, but never caught him to ask. There was no money to steal at my house, so he took what he could sell easily (not much) and left on the bicycle that was in the front hall.

Immediately afterwards, we made wooden pieces to stop the windows from being opened from the outside and had grillwork put on the window on the side porch. No more problems. Later, I had grillwork put on the front windows to match so that I could leave the windows open in the summer and get a great cross breeze with no danger of unwanted intrusion. If you make the grillwork fancy, it doesn't feel like a prison... Security has its price.

Do you count it as being robbed if the thief leaves you something?? Another time, in Pittsburgh, about an hour after I left for work, someone put a car in my garage, stripped off the tires and left it on blocks. The garage I used at the time was a stand-alone across the alley that had no door (despite the lack of door, it kept the car out of the weather). How do you get a car out of such a garage when it has no wheels? I think the police or tow people had to bring tires/wheels. It was probably stolen from a nearby university, but I never found out for sure! The garage owner installed cheap particle board doors, but at least you couldn't see if there was a car there or not – or leave someone else's stolen car... (Not too long after that, I had my own garage rebuilt to make it usable (with a main car door) and including a door directly into the basement – a great advantage in the winter and rain.)

The most recent theft happened at my house in Garoua Boulai on Thursday, October 15. (It had been more than 20 years since the last theft.) This house has grillwork on the windows. There are two screen doors that allow for great ventilation, but they both have latches so people can't just walk in. Most of Thursday, I was working at the house, preparing food in the kitchen, doing dishes, working at the living room (office) table, etc. About 2:45 I took a break to do some things in the bedroom. Half an hour later I came out to get something from my purse and couldn't find it where it usually is. Strange. I thought maybe I had left it at a friend's where I had visited earlier so I looked for my phone to call and ask. I couldn't find it either. When I walked into the living room and saw my computer gone, I knew I had been robbed. I am thankful that I didn't come out of the bedroom while he was in the house. He had torn the screen and reached into unlatch the door. In all, I guess he was not in the house more than five minutes.

As in the US, one has to make a police report. Here, we went to the station and they sent a man to look at the situation. Then I had to go back to the station twice the next day. They are trying. I got a call yesterday saying they had found a computer. Unfortunately, it wasn't mine.

What I am most bothered by is the fact that all of my work on the computer is gone. Not only that, he also took the external hard drive I got in August to back up my work! All of my documents, photos, etc. - gone. And, because he took my purse – to look for money later, I am sure, he also got my passport, residency card, camera...

So the lesson from this theft? Back up your work! I know, I had backed it up and lost that, too, but I have since realized that I have the old USB flash drive backups that I left in Philadelphia. It will take a month or two for me to get them (flash drives are not something you can send in the mail and expect them to arrive), but I will have 80% of my work or more. All my photos, blog entries, work documents, reports received... A huge relief, even if I have to wait a while to get them. So redundancy is good. Back things up several places! It is a pain to do and to remember to do, but if you have a theft like I did, you will know that it is worth it. (Oh, and don't keep the backups in the same place as the computer. Another room is good – or a safe...)

It is also worth getting renter's (or home owner's) insurance. There is paperwork to fill out (more) and I am still waiting for an estimate, but it looks like the company will pay for most everything (minus my deductible). They don't pay for time lost getting everything back in order, but getting new stuff is a relief!

Also, living in the digital age makes a huge difference. I had put copies of my passport and other important documents up in the “cloud.” I had also saved a list of my frequently used sites and passwords up there. I could also get back many documents sent or received by email from the last month (from my sent mail and trash). All is not lost – it just takes a long time to sift through and get it back.

We are now working to replace the screen door – more grillwork – so that even if the screen is cut, no person can enter. It will operate with a key so that reaching in will not enable the person to open the door. The grillwork is not a fancy or pretty as what I had in Pittsburgh, but it will do its job.

Meanwhile, I have borrowed a computer and a camera that church programs in the CAR had ordered. They have been waiting until they could safely cross the border and get to Bouar. (See the picture with computer and a new smart phone I bought and haven't yet figured out how to use.) Catherine Naabeau has generously given me permission to use the computer until I can get another. (She benefits, too, because I am installing programs and updating what is needed.) The computer is in French, though. I could put the programs in English, but then would have to switch them back when I get my own machine. This process of adjusting to a new machine is a pain. I know some things the computer is supposed to do, but can't find how this one will do them. And, this word-processing program keeps jumping the cursor back a line or highlights and erases a line when I don't what it to. Plus, 2 of the 3 USB ports won't read. I can't find the dictionary that will run spell-check in English. (Please excuse the increased number of typos.) All of these are details that can be worked out (especially because the computer tech for EELC is working at the hospital in GB. He has already helped me once and I am compiling a list of questions to see him again.

Yesterday, I went to N'gaoundere to apply for a replacement residency card. Next week, I go to Yaounde to the embassy to apply for a new passport. (I delayed hoping that the passport would be thrown on the ground and found by someone who would return it to me. No luck yet.)

Over the years, my losses seem to have come in pairs. Hopefully not this time...

P.S. No pictures this time. How can you take pictures of what is gone?? And, since most of my saved pictures are gone... (Sigh)  I had 3 pictures ready to insert, but the internet connection is VERY slow and the phone networks have been bad.  I figure it's better to get the news out and do pictures some other time...

Interesting note: I have often heard the expression that something smells like rotten eggs – you know that sulfur smell? I realized yesterday that I had never actually smelled a real rotten egg. The smell is 10 or 20 times as bad as they say! I had two eggs in a bowl. One was in some liquid so I decided to break it open to check it – even though I did smell the bad smell a little. Mistake! When I tapped the shell, it sort of exploded. The yolk was black ahd the smell intense. (So, even though the shell was not cracked, I guess the rotten stuff can leak through. Who knew??) I cleaned things up, took out the trash with both eggs – the second unopened, and was glad I would be away for 24 hours so that the smell could dissapate! I have a new understanding of the smell of rotten eggs...

Rain!

As I sit down to write this entry a storm is brewing – lots of wind, the beginning of raindrops falling,

the scent of wet earth in the air, and there’s the first thunder – still pretty far away.  Yep, it’s the end of the rainy season when there is LOTS of rain and thunderstorms!  I know I have said this in past years, but it still surprises me that rains increase as the dry season comes.  My “common sense” expects the rains to taper off and then stop.  Not here!  Can anyone explain this weather phenomenon?  I need to update my common sense.

I love to listen to the rain and to watch the storms, but first I’d better get ready:

            Unplug the microwave – check (I keep it unplugged when not in use anyway.)

            Unplug the computer and printer – check (I can still work with the battery.)

            Check the windows where rain is likely to come in – check (The curtains are blowing, sometimes straight out!  But I shouldn’t get wet because the porch protects these windows.)

            Oops.  Just heard the front door slam.  I forgot to prop it open or close it myself.  The back door is propped open so I can better see the rain.  (The same porch makes it so the rain doesn’t get in.) 

This region of Cameroon and the Central African Republic has one of the highest number of lightning strikes in the world.  This storm is just gearing up.  Sunday evening, though, we had a serious storm.  Same build-up, but a little faster.  Then as the lighting and thunder got closer suddenly there was a lightning strike with thunder at the same time.  Bam!  It made me jump even though I knew it was coming.  And, at the same time, the electricity went out.  This has happened before. 

Fortunately, there is a huge circuit breaker for the house that helps protect me.  It popped.  (Even with this protection, everything should be unplugged.  I have heard stories of a lightning strike travelling down wires and jumping several feet to fry computers.  This is strong stuff.)  This time, something else popped, too.  I don’t know where the lightning hit, but electricity for our neighborhood went out.  The next day I found out it went out for most for the whole town, too.  Get out the candles and battery lamps. 

 

Siting in the candlelight watching the storm is inspiring.  (Notice the mixture of candlelight and technology.  Living without electricity, but not really….)  These storms make me think of the power of God.  At times destructive, but not malicious.  At the same time, life bringing. 

Did you every try to take pictures of rain?  It’s much harder than photographing snow although in one picture I took the moisture on the camera lens makes it look a little like snow…  The other picture is to show the mud forming, but it doesn’t do that very well, either.  Oh, well.  You’ll just have to come experience this for yourself when you get a chance!

Sunday, the electricity came back at 10:30 p.m. – after three hours.  (After the storm passed, I reset the circuit breaker so that when electricity came back on, it came into the house, too.  The appliances were still unplugged so they would be no problem if the electricity surges when coming back on.) Then it was out again when I woke up, but back by 7 a.m.

No wonder it is hard to keep the grass cut at this time of year.  With daily hard rains that can last hours, grass grows as you watch it (almost) and mud is everywhere.  Watch out, much of the “dirt” is clay based and slippery when wet. 

I stared writing this just before 3 p.m., and I thought that I might or might not get to the Bible Study in the student housing camp at 4:30.  If it is raining, everyone knows that activities are postponed.  Well, by the time I got the pictures ready, the rain had tapered off.  Maybe I’ll get this uploaded and still get to the Bible Study on time!  We are reading the book of Genesis – Chapter 3 today.  Want to join us?  Send commentary, comments, and questions.  I’ll share them with the students (next week).

Visitors

Periodically, we in the "field" are visited by others from ELCA Global Missions. We were pleased to welcome Rev. Dr. Andrea Walker, Regional Program Director (based in Chicago), Anne Langdji, Regional Representative based in Yaoundé, and Dana Dutcher, the woman in charge of Synod-local church relations (sorry, Dana, I don’t remember your official title!) who is also based in Chicago.  They spent a couple of weeks in Cameroon, but given the continuing (and sometimes worsening) insecurity in the Central African Republic they could not even consider going there.

These visitors visited Yaoundé, N’gaoundéré and Garoua Boulai with a couple of other places in between.  I was with them in GB and Nandangue.  Lots of visits and conversation. 

We went to visit the Bible School Friday afternoon.  All the students and professors welcomed us with a couple of hymns in Gbaya.  This included the catechists-to-be, their spouses, the Director and both other teachers of the student-catechists as well as their wives who teach the spouses.  We had formal introductions and some conversation.  Here’s a picture of the visitors, teachers, and students of the Bible School.  The second is the teachers and visitors.

 

Saturday morning, we went to the palm oil plantation that the Bible School has started to help fund the institution.  The palm plants won’t produce oil until Year 4.  (They are now starting Year 3.)  In addition, though, they plant some food crops to help feed the students (and teachers) and to sell.  Here are some palm plants that will replace some that didn’t make it the first two years and a cricket we saw in the field.  These are edible, although a little bitter and not the preferred cricket for eating!  It’s pretty though…

The team then visited the hospital with Drs. Solofo and Joely Rakotoarivelo.  I have been there (living next door!) so I went to the market to get some veggies for lunch.  They had a great time seeing changes and talking with people there.

During the rest of the day, Andrea met with missionaries individually, including Rev. Dr. Elisabeth Johnson who came for the day from Meiganga.  In the evening the hospital hosted a dinner.  They gave Andrea, Anne, and Dana a gift of material and we had wonderful food.

Sunday, the visitors headed back to Yaoundé but the plan was to stop in Nandangue (½ hour from GB) for the church service.  The regional bishop and I went along as did the Mayor of GB.  She is a Lutheran and very supportive of the church.  (This is also her home village.)  What an eventful stop!  For this day, the four ELCA women wore “Femme pour Christ” – women for Christ material.  Since I don’t any, Dana lent me a pagne. 

First of all, as is usual in Gbaya culture, we were met and invited into the house next to the church (I am not sure if it is for the catechist, evangelist or pastor).  We were offered coffee or tea (which I expected), but also scrambled eggs and bread!  (We had had some at my house, too…)  Church leaders were with those of us coming from Garoua Boulai.  What a warm welcome!

Before...

The liturgy began, also as usual, with the choirs processing in with church leaders and visitors following behind.  Palms were woven with leaves of another plant to form the decorations around the entry.  We found out later that 400 people participated.  The service was in a mixture of French and Gbaya.  Normally, it would be only Gbaya, but they added the French for us.  The church is set up with three groups of benches for the congregation, some benches upfront on the sides for choirs, and chairs further in the front on the sides for important people.  The regional bishop and his assistant (who was liturgist) sat behind the altar facing the people.  (All of this is typical.)

During...

After...

It is also typical in October to have lots of rain storms.  It is one of the signs of the approaching dry season.  Still, in GB we have been having heavy rains in the afternoon, night and early mornings.  This Sunday, the heavy rains came about 11 a.m. in the middle of our service.  The church is beautiful with a corrugated tin roof that ELCA congregations from South Dakota helped fund, but they don’t yet have windows.  There are openings, but not shutter type windows.  This is an important detail when strong rains with high winds begin.  Suddenly the choir on the right of the altar brought a bench and sat on the other side (sharing some benches and using the one they brought).  Then, the faithful sitting on the right pews/benches moved to the middle.  The rain was coming sideways into the building.  Soon after that, the people in the middle all moved to the left!  Now people were in the last section and the aisle.  Even those of us upfront on the left could feel the mists of rain!  In addition, rain on a tin roof is very loud.  It was impossible for us to hear in our corner.  I think some people could hear; I only know that the liturgist was speaking Gbaya.

After about 20 minutes, the rains abated; now falling straight down at a much slower rate.  We could hear again.  The children were sent back to the right (wet) benches to clear the aisles and worship continued with communion.  After the service we visitors were given gifts of cloth.

After the service as we left the sanctuary, there was a lake outside where there had only been dirt upon our arrival. We picked our way back to the house where we were given lunch.  Fish, beef, rice, manioc…  prepared by different women of the church.  Andrea,

Anne, and Dana left for Yaoundé with at least seven and a half hours to drive (somewhat later than anticipated, but they made it safely).  The mayor left for GB with her children.  The regional bishop and I stayed a bit longer to let the people know that their hospitality was welcome and to chat.

As we left, we discovered a problem.  We had all parked under a huge mango tree as is the custom when it is sunny; it provides great shade.  Of course, we hadn’t anticipated the storm.  The high winds knocked a branch out of the tree onto the Land Cruiser I was driving.  There is now a small dent in the hood and a huge network of cracks in the windshield.  It will have to be replaced – maybe in N’gaoundéré – three hours away – or maybe in Yaoundé eight hours away.  (Yes, we made it back to Garoua Boulai with no difficulty.)  And, now the battery in the Cameroonian truck I have has gone dead.  There is a slight chance we can find a good one here, if not, it will again be N’gaoundéré or Yaoundé.  Little is easy, but much is possible. 

Still, overall, we had a great visit. All is well that ends well.  

Deux Fetes

Installation

Last April Pastor Djidere Nguembe Nestor was elected regional bishop for our area (the East

Region).  Although he began his work this summer, his official installation was Sunday, September 20, 2015.  An installation is a huge celebration as well as the formal event during the Sunday liturgy.  (On a personal level, this event was significant since I have known Bishop Nestor since I came to live in Garoua Boulai a couple of years ago and he was Director of the Bible School.)  Here’s a picture of me in the new dress I bought for the two celebrations described here.

As you might imagine, lots of planning and work goes into organizing such a fete (celebration).  Relatives and supporters came from all over.  The national bishop was here to do the installing. 

One of the first big questions was where to hold the liturgy.  With a couple of thousand people expected, would they fit in the church?  The areas outside the church and by the Bible School were certainly large enough and also considered, but this is the end of the rainy season when the rains are frequent and often intense.  In the end, the church was filled with chairs – fancy and plastic – with the benches set up outside the door under tents.  In the end over 1,400 people attended!  Holding the service inside the church was a good choice as heavy rains came part way through the service.  Rain came sideways at times because of the wind and mist even those of us inside and not too close to the windows.  I am sure those outside got wet, but at least it wasn’t everyone and the service could continue.

The protocol committee set up seating and directed people to appropriate places which were marked with names on sticky notes.  When expecting so many people, it is important to use all available space.  I know, too, that being upfront is an honor.  And, though honor dictates that I sit on the side upfront, I have to say, it is not my preferred place to be.  Unfortunately, it is difficult to see much of anything.  Here my view once everyone was seated…  The sound system was set up (with one large speaker close to my seat) and worked pretty well.  (Unfortunately, the huge speakers and the system often generate a fair amount of distortion.  At least it wasn’t too loud.) 

The liturgy was standard with the addition of the installation.  The national bishop installed Bishop Nestor; then the regional bishop installed his assistant.  That part was much like I imagine it would be in the USA although in French, of course.  The outgoing bishop preached the sermon.  Then, time was added into the service for people to bring gifts to the new bishop and his assistant.  These people also greeted the newly installed officials.  (That took a significant amount of time!)  The service ended with various people making remarks.  (I don’t think we do that in the US, but I’m not sure…  I’m not usually present at bishops’ installations!)  The whole service lasted about three hours.

Dr. Solofo and Bishop Nestor

Lydie, Bishop's wife

Assistant Bishop and his wife

The celebration actually started the night before the liturgy.  People from out of town, of course, arrived the day before.  I don’t know where they were all housed, but know that the guest houses were full and I am sure members of the congregation hosted people.  Many people gathered at the bishop’s house – across the street from me.  Music and singing started at about 7 p.m.  They used the sound system – turned up very loud; it was at a comfortable listening level for me in my living room!  The celebration continued into the night.  At about 2:30 a.m. the rain started and the amplification ended.  I thought everyone would turn in for some sleep, but about 10 minutes later the a cappella singing started; fortunately for me, it wasn’t nearly as loud.  Celebrate!  (Yes, I got intermittent sleep – and it was quiet when I woke up at 6 a.m.) 

Now, imagine feeding all the guests after the liturgy.  Wow.  Women cooked over outdoor wood fires for hours and created a huge spread.  Invited guests, mostly from out of town, but including people

like me, ate at the EELC Social Center.  We could choose from lots of options:  beef, fish, chicken, boa constrictor, monkey, plantains, manioc, yams, pasta salad, tomato salad…  They had two buffet tables set up in two different rooms.  (One with china plates and one with plastic disposables – imagine all the clean-up required, too!)  Local guests were invited to the bishop’s house for sandwiches. (That is what was announced; I didn’t see what they served.)  A huge thank you to all the women who worked hard to feed the multitude.

Many participants left Sunday afternoon although some stayed until Monday.  We are still settling back into routines after all the excitement.

Fete des Moutons

Thursday, September 24 was Eid al-Adha, Arabic meaning Festival of Sacrifice. This Muslim holiday commemorates when Abraham was asked to sacrifice his son – and at the last minute God came to him and said not to kill him as the sacrifice was already accepted.  Tradition says that the food is to be divided in thirds for family, relatives/friends/neighbors, and the poor/needy.  Here in Cameroon, it is often called the festival of the sheep because many people share this meat for their celebration.  In GB there is a religious celebration outside of town and lots of celebrations with family and friends.  This holiday also marks the end of the traditional time to make a hajj – a trip to Mecca and Medina which is required of all Muslims who are able.

The “Fete des Moutons” is a national holiday in Cameroon so most stores, schools, and government offices are closed.

This year, for the first time, I was invited to share a meal with some Muslim friends.  Sani invited me and arranged for his friend to pick me up in his car.  (He doesn’t live too far away; the house is at the other end of town.)  Food was ready as I arrived about 3:30 p.m.  We had mutton, goat, pasta with plantains, salad, tea, Coke, and water.  They served me first on three heaping plates.  Then they dumped the other food onto a large tray from which they ate.  I appreciated the acknowledgement of my cultural norms, but assured them I could eat from the tray with them, as is their tradition.  (Plus, they had given me enough food for at least three people – by putting it back into the common tray, I could eat my fill and not feel obliged to try to eat more than my share!) 

I found the arrangement in the house interesting.  On entering the house, there is an entry way with part that leads to the rest of the house.  On the right was a room with rugs, a mat, pillows and a television.  Beside the hall was a small, room where we ate.  It was enclosed by bars dividing it from the rest of the house and had a door – also grill work – that could be padlocked.  In the room were four of the ubiquitous plastic chairs with a matching plastic table.  There was no room for people to move around the table once we were seated. 

During the meal, we chatted – often with me answering questions about the USA and our culture.  After we ate, we moved to the TV room and watched the news.  Did you hear about the tragedy in Mina, near Mecca?  There was a stampede crushing many people – over 700 dead and 800 more wounded.  People from all over the world died, including seven Cameroonians.  I am told that no one from Garoua Boulai who went was involved.  Saudi Arabia has the huge task of preparing for 2-3 million visitors and is trying to plan for up to 9 million in future years.  What a very sad occurrence this year.  My heart goes out to the affected families and friends. 

You might wonder why I participated at all in this festival; I am a Christian after all.  I believe that our best chance for lasting peace in this world begins at the local level.  We must all be willing to listen to and interact with our neighbors, especially those who are different from us.  We must know them and see them as fellow human beings who share the same feelings, problems, hopes, and joys.  I don’t expect to convert or be converted in the conversations I have with my Muslim friends in Garoua Boulai, but I do hope to promote understanding, peace, and a strong willingness to work together.  (Interesting note: when talking to some of these Muslim friends about the continuing road insecurity in CAR, two of them told me that they would come and get me if ever I were taken hostage!  OK...  Of course, I am never going to be in a place where hostage-taking is remotely possible, but isn’t it a sign of friendship that these “strangers” or “others” would be willing to put themselves at risk for me??)  Many thanks to Sani and his family for a delightful afternoon and the offer of friendship. 

To Meng and Tibati

I arrived back in Garoua Boulai Friday evening and left again after church Sunday for Meng. That doesn’t give much time for unpacking and repacking – and I have evidence that it wasn’t enough because of the things I forgot.  I took the sheet, towel, flashlight, lamp, Bible, notes for what I was to teach, but forgot the umbrella, tea bags, fruit and maybe some other things.  Packing for a trip here is not the same as within the USA nor between the USA and here…  

Ah, well, things still went well.

The Dean (on the left in the picture) of the Seminary (Institut Théologique Luthérien de Meiganga – the Lutheran Theological Institute of Meganga) asked me in the spring if I would lead a training session on pedagogy for his professors and for those at the Bible School in Meng.  He chose Meng because this year they are opening a program to train evangelists as pastors.  I explained this once before, but will try again to distinguish the levels of training here in Cameroon and the CAR.  Catechists study for two years (in one of four Bible Schools) in Cameroon and for three years at the one Bible School in CAR.  They then lead the liturgy on Sunday, often preach, and help out in the congregation.  Evangelists in Cameroon study for three years, also at a Bible School, but not every Bible School has this level.  (Meng does.)  The Bible School in Baboua, CAR does not train evangelists.  These people work with several congregations to help them grow and or to plant new churches. And, in reality, they often act as assistants to the pastors.  A pastor studies for three years at the Institute in Meiganga, Cameroon or four years at the Seminary in Baboua, CAR.  They are fully trained to lead a congregation and perform the sacraments.  Pastors are generally assigned to a district or region; they have multiple congregations – some as few as 4-5 others with more than 30.  (The new teacher at the Bible School in Garoua Boulai was working as a pastor near Tibati and was responsible for 33 congregations!  Himself.  Imagine that.)

Since the church has a chronic shortage of pastors, especially in area in the west, EELC (the Evangelical Lutheran Cameroonian Church) has partnered with the Norwegians to create this new program.  Evangelists who are interested and qualified will complete a two-year training course at the Bible School in Meng.

Getting to Meng

I drove about 100 km. (63 miles) northwest to Meiganga.  Elisabeth Johnson joined me there since

she teaches at the seminary.  We then drove west to Meng, another 250 km. (156 m).  For this kind of travel, mentioning the condition of the roads is automatic.  GB-Meiganga is great – paved road all the way.  Driving 60 mph is common although there are lots of villages where drivers have to slow down – especially because there are often large speed bumps.  Still, one can generally arrive in 1 ¼ hours.  Much of the road from Meiganga to Meng is also paved, but it has MANY pot holes.  (Pittsburghers, you complain about holey roads, but this has you beat hands down.)  Many aren’t deep, but some are.  It isn’t always easy to tell until you are on top of them.  So, driving on the shoulder – or half on the shoulder – is common.  Plus, this is the rainy season.  For much of the distance on the way I drove in driving rain that made it hard for the wipers to keep the windshield clear.  Fortunately, on the way back it rained hard the night before and we had no rain on the road.  4 ½ hours going and 3 ½ coming back. 

Officially, the government should take care of the road, but that doesn’t happen unless it is being paved.  In fact, there was a very nice stretch of road that is not paved, but has been recently graded (probably in preparation for paving).  It was four lanes wide and flat as a pancake.  A joy! 

In some areas, pot holes are filled by local people.  These are often youth who hope that drivers passing by will give them a little money for their effort.  On the way back, we saw four such young people filling in holes – maybe ten years old, including two girls.  It was afternoon by then, so I hope they had attended school in the morning, but maybe not…  Still, we gave them a little money to encourage the work.

Elisabeth and I stayed at the Catholic guest house in Tibati, a larger town than Meng that is five km. beyond it.  (Tibati is known for the large lake that is nearby and for the fish people get from it.  We ate some wonderful Capitan the first night in Meng.)  The guest house at Meng housed the other professors from Meiganga.  Both houses are comfortable although they have a problem getting water at Meng.  Our guest house was separate rooms (as opposed to rooms in a common house as at Meng) and we had cold running water.  We appreciated the courtesy the organizers and Catholics extended us.  I wouldn’t have minded spending more time in the area to see the town and huge lake.  

The Training

The Bible Schools and Seminary generally start mid-September.  This teacher in-service could not be any later than it was because of these starting dates.  (It couldn’t be any sooner since Elisabeth and I would not have been back from the USA.) 

The idea of this training was to give participants time to consider what is working for them and what can be improved.  Then I introduced some basic concepts of Vygotsky – you teachers know who that is, right?  We talked about learning be a process done in collaboration with others and the ZPD – Zone of Proximal Development.  The nine profs were pleased to have the information.  Only one had heard of any of this before (as he had studied education).  Finally, we talked about self-evaluation; each rated him/herself and picked a couple of strategies taught to try out this year.  It would be nice to be able to follow up with them during the year.  Maybe that will be possible.  By the way, all instruction and conversation was in French…

Back in GB

In Garoua Boulai, the Bible School restarted Monday, September 14.  I teach on Wednesday, so I got back Tuesday evening in time to teach the next day.  In addition, students and profs at the Bible School take turns leading the meditation each morning.  I was scheduled for Wednesday morning.  I had asked the Director to switch things because of my travel, and although he agreed to do so, he had to go to N’gaoundéré and had made no arrangements.  Back with a bang!  In the end, I am glad I lead the meditation because we used my planning process in class as I talked to the students about how they can better plan for the meditations they must lead. 

Now I would like to get my email inbox cleaned out, but…  All this week Camtel, my provider, has been having difficulties.  Internet speed is less than half the usual bandwidth.  I have trouble opening my ELCA email account and can’t read Facebook at all.  My gmail (set to the basic level which takes up less bandwidth) works sometimes.  I can’t easily up- or download files.  All those emails sitting in my work inbox with reports attached might as well be on the moon!  I talked to the people in two Camtel offices today.  They are aware of the problem and need a technician to arrive from Yaoundé.  Who knows when that will be? 

I hope to be able to post this message later today, but we will be lucky if there are one or two pictures.  Meanwhile, I will limp along – making some phone calls, looking at a few reports I had downloaded in Yaoundé or PA, or finding other things that need to be done around the house.

Memory Lane and Readjustment

Back in Garoua Boulai after 3 days of uneventful travel!

I decided to write about one of my experiences while in the USA for vacation.  Yes, I visited the family and many friends, but that was “normal,” if very enjoyable.  My family is all well and I was happy to have the time to visit them – and as many friends as I could fit in, too.

Over Labor Day weekend, however, I went to San Francisco to the reunion of Returned Peace Corps

Volunteers from the Central African Republic from the late 1970s!  They have been meeting every two years for about a dozen years, but this was the first time I attended. What a kick.  Had a great time.  Here’s a selfie so you can see the commemorative t-shirt.

It has been more than 35 years since I came home from the CAR (the first time). Approximately 30 people came to this reunion hosted by Barbara Howald and Michael Blake; many of them I had not seen since I left CAR.  Add in some spouses and a few children I had never met and you have a recipe for asking the same person’s name several times or asking about a person only to be told I had
just been chatting with him for 10 minutes.  Lots with gray hair, glasses, hearing aids, and an occasional paunch…  I have been in (unfortunately) infrequent contact with a handful of friends from my Peace Corps days – funny how those people seemed to have changed less. 

What impressed me the most as I caught up with these friends was how similar our values and views on life continue to be.  What drew us all to the Peace Corps is still active in our lives.  We could pick up conversations easily.

Plus, we got to visit San Francisco.  Babs and Michael have a wonderful apartment with a view of part of the city.  I stayed in a very nice hotel about 3 miles closer to the piers (downtown).  The hotel was older but well-maintained and cared for. Rooms were cute.  That is, they were small, but didn’t feel crowded. I had a bed that was larger than a single, but smaller than a double.  There was a sink, hair dryer, luggage rack, hooks, television, full-length mirror, iron, ironing board, stool, chair, little basket for carrying toiletries to the bathroom, and a robe!  I still had room to move about freely.  The toilet was in one room down the hall and the shower in another.  Both rooms were so small that you had to close the door to be able to turn around.  There were two sets of stairs – on so narrow that my arms almost brushed the walls on the ways down.  There was also an elevator though I took the steps often.  I liked this room better than the larger, but cookie cutter-type rooms of most hotels/motels. I’d gladly stay there again.

Saturday we had a picnic in the park that is just below the Golden Gate Bridge – ok, below would probably be in the water, but at the foot on the level park there.  You can’t reserve a picnic spot so Michael sent his (adult) daughter at 6 a.m. to get us the best place!  She and her boyfriend stayed to watch the sun rise and until others could get there.  We had one portable plastic “paillote” (tent without sides) so there was lots of time to be in the sun.  A Mexican caterer came with a huge wok-type grill – but flatter – to make us paella.  Lots of sea food in it – delicious.  Later in the day we ate catered Senegalese food.  Also good but much spicier.

  

People brought stuff (valuable stuff as it turns out) from their time in CAR which was auctioned off.  All money is going to Water for Good, an NGO that works to provide clean water in CAR.  We had a great time bidding, explaining what the object was and where it came from (sometimes even telling the truth), and laughing.  I bought a shirt – it was made for a man, but does fit me.  Many of the items have now appeared at two or three reunions to be re-auctioned!  Doubly valuable.

Sunday, we went to Alcatraz. A flat rock in the bay was made into a military fort in the 1800s.  Later, they kept military prisoners there.  In the early 1900s, it became a prison for the general population.  Prisoners who had caused problems elsewhere were sent to this maximum security prison – 1 ½ miles from land.  The warden, guards, and their families lived on part of the island so children took the ferry to SF daily for school.  The prison was closed sometime after World War II, then from 1969 to 1971 the island was occupied by Native Americans who claimed the land as theirs.  The island, whose names comes from old Spanish “island des alcatraces,” or Seabirds Island, is now part of the National Park system.  A ferry runs regularly from Pier 33 to the island park.

 

Water has always been brought in on a barge; none occurs naturally.  Despite that, guards’ wives and some prisoners planted and cared for beautiful gardens.  One prisoner worked on the gardens for 8 years.  Recently, the park got money to restore the overgrown gardens, that had, well, gone to seed…  Barbara is a volunteer gardener who goes a couple of times a week to assist and some other days to be a tour guide.  She arranged for us to help out.

About 15 of us went on the first (staff) boat.  Barbara gave us a quick tour of the island, emphasizing the work being done on the gardens.  Then we cleared out dead plants, dead-headed geraniums, etc.  Most people worked between two and three hours, but I had to leave earlier so I could get to the airport for my flight back to Pennsylvania.  Here’s my work supervisor – s/he watched most of the time I worked –and occasionally sang to me.  Beautiful area and a wonderful way to spend a morning.

Back in Cameroon

Elisabeth Johnson and I arrived back in Yaoundé on the same flight.  (Interesting that both of us could get a direct flight from Paris to Philadelphia – or Minneapolis for her, but neither of us could get a direct one coming back.  She had to make an extra stop in Boston and I in Atlanta.)  Since we needed to come to Garoua Boulai/Meiganga the next day, we arrange for Gbabiri David to drive us.  His friend Celine came along. 

On the road at one of the toll booths, Celine bought some verres blancs that are found in stands of bamboo.  I couldn’t see them closely when she offered me some – so I took and ate three fat, whitish worms from a barbeque stick.  Mostly I could taste the oil and crispness from the grilling.  She offered me more, but I declined.  She said that sometime she will make me some that are better than these.  (Oh, boy, can’t wait!  Yes, the fact that I did not grow up eating these fat worms –or caterpillars – does add a bit of a gag factor…) No picture available as the camera was packed too far from me.  Maybe that’s better…

Just after getting in to Garoua Boulai, I went to the Camtel office to buy internet credit.  It seems that in my absence, the phone/internet companies (at the direction of the government) froze all accounts until a copy of an identity card could be provided.  This is supposed to (somehow) increase security in the country.  No problem, I had a copy of mine with me.  But, a problem developed when that didn’t work.  They said they had to call their boss who was on vacation to find out what to do.  They promised to deliver it to my house with credit.  The woman came at 5:45 with the device and my money; they couldn’t get it to work.  She said I need to buy a new sim card – now why couldn’t they have called me to ask me and do it that day??  I had to go back this morning – office opens at 7:30 a.m. so I went an hour later and the woman was there, but the man who could solve my problem was not.  She called him on the phone and he said he was “on his way.”  20 min. later she called again and he still insisted that he was “on his way” but had to come on foot.  (I had walked, too... So, why couldn’t he tell me about when he could arrive so I could have done some marketing and come back?)  Once he came he basically ignored me, called the boss again, and finally they gave me a new sim card with credit.  I got home (after a needed trip to the market) and found that the devise cannot establish a connection.  (Sigh.)  I called again, and the woman said the man was out of the office, but would come by when he gets back – he is the only one who can fix this problem; she can’t.  (Double sigh.)  So I am preparing this blog entry while awaiting an internet connection; think you’ll see it today?

I am sure that this story has similarities and differences to those you have about technology.  It may not play out exactly the same, but it is still true that when technology works, it makes things easier, faster, and increases connections.  When it doesn’t work, it is a royal pain!

My suitcases are unpacked.  The house is dirty and the girl who was to come clean today didn’t show up.  She doesn’t currently have a functional phone. (Sigh.)  I leave for 3 days in Meng, though, tomorrow, so I will clean (or find someone to do it) when I get back.  I will be doing a workshop on pedagogy for the professors of the seminary (of Meiganga) and those of the Bible School in Meng.  Elisabeth will be there, too.  So, in a bit, I have to pack again – a little differently than for my trip to/return from the USA.  More about that trip next week.

Maybe it is good that I don’t have internet.  It will delay my sending this, but I can’t even consider starting to get caught up on emails on a Saturday!  

PS  Obviously, my internet is working again!