Tuesday, September 18, 2012

On the Road Again!


I am trying to add a couple of pictures.  It's not the best I've ever taken, but it is recent!  Next time I'll wear a Phillips or Pittsburgh t-shirt!  (To bad I don't have an ELLC or PLUM one)

Willie Langdji, one of the West Africa area representatives for the ELCA has arrived in N'Gaoundere.  He will be taking me to CAR tomorrow to introduce me to people there.  Here’s the tentative plan: 
Me on a main street of N'gaoundere

  • Leave N’gaoundéré sometime between 8 and 9 a.m.
  • Drive 4 hours or so – some good, paved roads, some not – to Garaou Boulai, this is a Cameroonian town on the border with CAR.  We stopped there for the night on the way here.
  • While in the border town, we need to arrange some paperwork so that the Toyota HiLux that will be mine for a while can be driven in CAR.  It is registered in Cameroon. 
  • After crossing the border (which can take some minutes or an hour), we will drive an hour to Baboua. 
  • If the Central African church vehicle is available, National President Golike will drive to the border to meet us and travel back with us.
  • We will stop briefly in Baboua so I can see the house and house where I will stay eventually.
  • Then it’s off to Bouar, a town 2 hours further east.  That is where the national church offices are.
  • I will stay there for a couple of days to see what is there and then go ½ hour further north to Bohong.  There is a Lutheran clinic there and it is where I will study Sango (though not on this trip). 
  • After a couple of days in Bohong, I will go back to Baboua to get ready to go to study Sango.  By then, I should have a better idea which parts of the stuff I have I need there and which can stay in Baboua.
  • I will be studying Sango through Oct. and maybe into Nov.  We shall see how it goes!
  • I know already that early in November, I will be back in Bouar for a partners meeting.  That involves officials from the EEL-RCA (Eglise Evangelique Lutherienne- Republique Centrafricaine), people from synods who support programs in CAR (2 in North Dakota and LA-Gulf Coast), and those from other missions working in the area.  (More on that as it happens!)
 So, I will have a pick-up truck that will be “mine” to use.  It is a stick shift which I haven’t driven for a while, but I am more leery about the size and the road here.  Fortunately, I don’t have to drive tomorrow.  I figure I can get used to the roads in Baboua or Bohong where there is less traffic before I’m ready for them to “turn me loose”!  In any case, I need someone with me since I don’t know how to get anywhere – so that person might as well drive…
I did have a lesson today on how to check fluids under the hood and to find what I (or someone with me J) need to change a tire.  

Here's "my" truck.  It's on a carport so you can't get the full feel of its size...

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Mpallango Tjanlingo

 Wow! What a day and what an honor! At the National Bishop's invitation, Themba, Elisabeth, and I went with him and the pastor of the area to worship in the church at Mpallango Tjalingo.  (Sorry, Internet connection still too slow to upload pictures...)

First a note about the organization of the church here and the ELCA mission. There are not yet enough pastors for every church to have one full time.  Each village with a church has an Evangelist who works with them.  Then, each region has a pastor, in this case Pr. Ousmano Dieudonne who serves 8 churches in his district.  He is able to visit them regularly, but not every Sunday.  Rev. Dr. Nyiwe Thomas is the bishop who heads the whole Evangelical Lutheran Church in Cameroon.
Rev.Themba Mkhabela is a Regional Representative for the ELCA (Evangelical Lutheran Church in America) who supports theological education and interfaith communication.  (There are many Moslems in Cameroon as well as Baptists, Pentacostals, and other branches of Lutheranism.) Rev. Dr. Elisabeth Johnson is just arriving in country with me.  She will be studying French in N'gaoundere and then teaching Systematic Theology at the Seminary in Meiganga. I, of course, am meeting counterparts in Cameroon and will be going to CAR in about a week. 

 So, it was a huge occasion to have not only the pastor lead the worship, but the national bishop.  He, in turn brought us!  They had not expected us, but welcomed us with open arms.  It rained all night and continued this morning.  The car ride to Mpallango Tjanlingo was challenging since most of the road is not paved.  Although it was not too far, puddles, potholes, and mud kept our speed to a minimum.  Fortunately, we had a safe and experienced driver.  The village had a large welcome planned where some would meet us on motorcycles and many others would line the street near the entrance to the church.  Rain prevented these activities, but some members of other churches in the district were able to come.

We were welcomed in a ceremony in a hut near the church.  They fed us noodles and chicken and provided coffee or Grenadine soda.  After introductions and some conversation, the pastors went to put on their robes.  A line of women sand and danced at the entrance.  Once congregants (including Themba, Elisabeth, and I) were inside, the dancers processed, followed by the pastor, evangelist, and bishop.  Part of the liturgy included introducing us and allowing us to give brief remarks.  A couple of times, the people cheered! (for example, then they heard that Elisabeth will be teaching in Cameroon).  When I told them that my first task in CAR is to learn Sango and said hello in that language, they laughed and clapped again.  I should mention that all 3 of us, the bishop, the pastor, and the evangelist sat up front on a platform to the side or behind the altar.  Another honor for us!

The service was in a combination of French and the local African language with some English thrown in for and by us.  It was much like services in the US - Bible readings, sermon, announcements, communion.  We were also present for baptisms (4 infants and 3 young adults) and confirmation (2 other young adults).   There was much lively and joyful music with some people dancing in the small area between the pews (benches) and the altar area. 

After the liturgy (about 2 hours with all the extras...), we were again invited to the nearby hut.  We ate cassava and a meet dish.  Outside the people sang and danced with joy at our presence as one man played the drums.   Despite the mud and continuing drizzle, people stayed around. 

When we left, they lined the streets and followed the car to the intersection with the main road of the village.  Such singing, clapping, and cheering!  They did not want to see us go! They gave a gift of two (live) chickens to the bishop.  They rode back with us...  (held upside down by the legs with only occasional squawks!)

I feel privileged to have been invited to participate in this worship service and the welcoming ceremonies that surrounded it.  I know that they felt honored that people from the USA were there, but, really, I felt that the honor was mine - to be included in their daily life.  So many similarities, despite obvious differences.

Friday, September 7, 2012

Traveling in Cameroon


Part of my time in Cameroon is to enable me to meet people (mostly Cameroonians) working in Lutheran programs here.  In Yaoundé we visited UPAC, Université Protestante au Cameroon.  We were privileged to have time to talk to the Rector (head of the university), the Secretary General, and a small group of women who are involved in the Women’s Group (spouses of students.  There are female students, but currently no male spouses).  Our guide was Pastor Antoinette, a pastor from the Central African Republic who is finishing her doctorate; she defends her dissertation in December!  Everyone we met was gracious and informative. 

We left Yaoundé Wednesday, September 5, 2012 and traveled east then north to Garaou Boulai.  All of the road between these two cities is paved so it was smooth going!  We arrived in 7 ½ hours which included a ½-hour gas, bathroom, and food break.  Tthe road is one lane each direction with a little extra on each side.  It has lines, too, like any 2-lane road in the US.  Much of the way traffic was light; many vehicles were trucks – large or small.  It seems that many other truck drivers drive at night.

Here are some sights we saw:
* Much of the road has been recently completed, so we saw freshly cut passes through small hills – a couple of times rock “wall” lined the road; other times it was red, red soil that doesn’t yet have any plants.  Near the top workers have cut a path along which people can walk.
* Villages and towns built along the road have houses built from materials found nearby.  At first, they were woven sticks with mud filling in the gaps.  As we entered the Gbaya (an ethnic group) area, houses were made with mud brick.  Both kinds of buildings had thatched roofs.  There were also some round buildings. 
* Near the towns there are LOTS of stands selling cell phone credit!
* Trees I recognize include a few palm, mango, banana, and some citrus. By the way, many of the oranges they sell here are green or green and orange on the outside – they are orange inside and taste good.  There was also a gorgeous, large tree with yellow flowers that appear to be clusters of many small blooms.  I took a picture of this last kind of tree, but will be including no pictures with this entry because of limited Internet service. 
* In Gbaya country many people like to put cassava (manioc) along the side of the road to dry.  Advantage:  the area is flat and not muddy; disadvantage: all the passing traffic and resulting fumes!  We saw one woman hastily sweeping up here manioc as it began to rain.  Note:  cassava is the root of a plant that is eaten.  They cut it in pieces, wash it, dry it, pound it into powder, and finally mix it with water to make a dough-like preparation that is eaten with a sauce, often with the hands. 
* Along the road we sometimes saw piles of wood or sack of other things.  These are waiting for a ride (with those who will sell them) to another town.  I am not sure who picks them up, probably small buses, truck, friends…

In Garoua Boulai, we stayed overnight in a guest house.  We were invited to dinner by Dr. Solofo and his wife Joely.  They are both missionaries from Madagascar working at the hospital in town.  Great conversation and better food!

The next day we visited the hospital.  They have done amazing work and are supported by many partners so much of their equipment is state-of-the-art.  Next, we drove to Meiganga, a town a little less than 2 hours away.  This road is under construction, but most of it is not yet paved.  Because it is a dirt road, periodically there is a rain barrier.  Large trucks are not permitted to pass on the roads for a specific amount of time after the rain so that they don’t create more major problems and undo the grading work.  We drove through an impressive line of trucks waiting for permission to pass – it lined both sides of the road with more than 10-truck on each side!  We were permitted to pass because we have a smaller vehicle.  There were also a lot of motorcycles, too, that were permitted to pass.

In Meiganga, we visited the Institute Theologique Luteranne de Meiganga.  This is where Elisabeth will be teaching once she has learned French.  Classes there have not started, but we were able to meet the Dean and another professor.  After some conversation, we toured the institute and the house where Elisabeth will live after she finished French classes in N’gaoundéré. 

In a little less than 2 additional hours we reached N’gaoundéré.  We are staying at guest houses on the Lutheran Mission Campus.  It is gorgeous here, as are the houses.  Dr. Danki and his wife hosted us for dinner.  They work at the hospital that is a 5-minute walk away; he is a urologist (who also practices other medicine, as needed) and she is a physical therapist.  Once again we were shown fantastic hospitality.

Friday morning we met with the National Bishop of the Lutheran Church in Cameroon.  He talked to us about the history of US missions, which began in 1923.  There also 2 other Lutheran groups in the country: the Lutheran Brethren in the northern part of the country (whose US headquarters are in Minnesota) and churches supported by the Wisconsin Synod.  We also learned about other Lutheran programs in Cameroon and the recent ordination of the first women pastors here.

This is the rainy season, so it has rained every day, but not all day.  It has often been overcast although we see the sun sometimes.  For example, it was sunny in the morning today, but got cloudier as the day went on.  The rain began about 5:30 p.m.  We had been out about town in the afternoon, but were, fortunately home before the major rain.

Send questions that you would like me to answer and I will do my best to address them!

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Arrived in Yaounde


Greetings to all who have been wishingme well and wanting to know when I am leaving and what it’s like in Africa!  I have arrived! 

As scheduled, we left the US on Thurs., Aug. 30.  I traveled with Elisabeth Johnson who will be teaching at the seminary in Cameroon (after she has studied French).  We arrived in Yaoundé, Cameroon on Fri., Aug. 31 at about 6:30 p.m.  (There’s a 5-hour time difference from Pennsylvania to here.)  The trip was long (29 hours including travel to the airport and waits at various points), but uneventful overall.  The funniest story happened at the Philadelphia airport.  We had to sit on the plane for about 20 min. waiting while they rearranged and crammed and struggled with the luggage.  We were on a small propeller plane going to Newark and there must have been a lot of people like me who were making international connections because they couldn’t fit all the suitcases into the hold!  They got in all the ones for people with international connections and all the carry-on bags, but about 5 people’s luggage had to fly US Air and meet the passengers at their destination!  One of the pilots told us about it and said that in 5 years of flying that has never happened to him before!  Weight would not be a problem, he assured us, but we had to wait while they tried to pack things as tightly as possible and then make other arrangements for the other stuff! 

Joe Troester, who works in Baboua, where I will be, met us at the airport with a taxi driver that he had hired.  We had to hire a second taxi to have space for Elisabeth and my bags, plus the two of us, Joe, and drivers!  Still, we made it with little difficulty – just some rush hour traffic.

We are staying at the guest house of Wycliffe Associates.  This organization is part of SIL (Summer Institute of Linguistics) and works to translate the Bible into diverse languages of the world.  They have copies of the Bible in Sango (the national African language of CAR) and Gbaya (the ethnic group and language of western CAR and parts of Cameroon).  I have not seen them yet…  Anyway, the guest area is part of the annex and located 1-2 km. from the main area.  It is a series of buildings built around a grassy area with a few trees and clothes lines.  There is also a small building with a thatched roof for meeting, sitting, outside. 
 
Elisabeth and I each have a room with bathroom.  Just after we arrived, we went to a French restaurant for dinner.  And, for those of you who think that Cameroon is “roughing it,” I took a picture of the dessert I had.  This is a restaurant that specializes in the cuisine from Brittany where crepes are popular.  I had a tomato and cheese one for dinner and then the Dame Blanche Crepe – crepe, ice cream, chocolate, and whipped cream! 

Today has been a rest/recuperate day, basically.  We met with two of the people with whom Elisabeth will be working and will have dinner with them and some others this evening.  I will meet Rev. Antoinnette, a pastor from CAR who is in Yaoundé finishing her doctorate. 

Over the next few days we will be visiting a church (on Sunday of course!), meeting some other people, shopping, getting my visa for CAR…  The current plan is to head north Wednesday. 

As I write, I can hear the field close by where there is a soccer game.  Occasionally, the announcer talks about the game (which, from here, is garbled French) and the rest of the time they are playing loud music – mostly African with an occasional song from the US thrown in.

So, all is well.  I am beginning to adjust.  I know that these days are important, but I am looking forward to when I can go to Baboua, Central African Republic.  (Tentatively that will be Sept. 14 or 15.) 

Check back to the blog to get updates and write comments or questions.  I’d love to answer whatever you are curious about (as much as I am able…).

Friday, August 3, 2012

Dates and Details


Orientation is over!  I am in Pittsburgh sorting, packing, making lists, organizing, planning and trying to make sure I don’t forget any detail that needs to be taken care of.  There is a for rent sign in the front yard of my house.  I have a tentative date to take the bulk of my stuff into storage and various lunch/dinner dates to visit with friends before I go.

Here is the projected timeline:
            Aug. 17 – 20 trip to Memphis to visit my brother and sister-in-law
            Aug. 22 (or so) trip to Mechanicsburg to visit my parents
            Aug. 26 (or so) continue to Philadelphia to visit my sister and family
            Aug. 30 leave Philadelphia for Younde, Cameroon (via DC and Brussels)
            Sept 1 (or so) drive from Younde to N’gaoundéré (also Cameroon)
            Sept 4 (or so) drive from Ngaoundere to Baboua, Central African Republic
            Sept 7 (or so) drive to Bohong, CAR to begin Sango (nat’l language) class

I will be traveling (from Washington, DC on) with Elisabeth Johnson who will be teaching a seminary in Meiganga, Cameroon after she takes French classes in N’Gaoundéré.  We met and got to know each other during orientation.  

Fortunately, Joe Troester, who also works for the ELCA in Baboua, will meet us in Yaounde.  While there we need to buy some things that we couldn’t bring with us.  My list includes:  printer/scanner, wireless router, cell phone, and mosquito net. 

Driving from Yaounde (in the southern part of the country) to N’Gaoundéré is about an 11 hour drive – all but 50 miles of the road is paved and they are working to pave that. 

The drive from N’Gaoundéré to Baboua is about 5 hours and includes crossing the border from Cameroon to CAR which can take up to an hour.  I think that road is now paved – something new in the last couple of months for the Central African part. 

Wow! That’s a lot of dates and details, but, of course, my life is all about details and dates at the moment.  

Oh, and today is my birthday.  I am having dinner with a friend and then going to the Shadyside Arts Festival. 

Monday, June 18, 2012

June 18, 2012

Taking one step forward.  My last day of work was Fri., June 15.  Today, I went to PSERS and filled out all the paperwork.  The PPS paperwork is also done.  I attended the wonderful end-of-year/retirement parties for both Pgh. Phillips and Spring Hill K-5 schools.  The former school made a donation in my honor to a charity of my choice and the latter game me a great Work Time Clock.  It is currently set for Pittsburgh time as the base and Central African time on right.  (I had to put the plane in Paris since there are no holes for places in Africa!  Can't imagine why...)

Now on to packing - stuff to take to the orientation in Toronto (July 8 - 27), to Africa, and to go into storage!  I took another trunk-load of stuff to Goodwill - always a sense of accomplishment.  Now, if someone would just sort through a lot of the papers and other minutia I have, I could just take it easy and relax (as if I could!)

Tuesday, June 12, 2012


June 12, 2012

This is my last week as an employee of the Pittsburgh Public Schools.
I am wrapping up my work there and, at the same time, preparing for
the up-coming changes that will be necessary as I move to the Central African Republic.

As I talk to various friends and colleagues, some of the same questions keep coming up.  So, this entry will be an FAQ of sorts…

Where are you going??
I will be living in Baboua, Central African Republic (CAR).  The country is right in the middle of the continent at about 6-7° N latitude. It is south of Tchad, north of the Democratic Republic of the Congo, west of Cameroon, and east of Sudan (North and South).  The town is
1 hour from the Cameroonian border in the western part of the country.

What did it used to be called???
The country has been called the CAR since its independence in 1960 except for a brief period as the Central African Empire from 1976-79 (when Bokassa decided that being President-for-Life wasn’t enough and crowned himself emperor…).  Before that it was part of French Equatorial Africa and before that part of Ubangui-Shari…  So, if you haven’t heard of it, it is more likely because it is a small, poor country that rarely is in the news in the US.

What is the country like?
The country is about the size of Texas.  The capital is Bangui, which is in the southern part of the country across the river from DR Congo.  Few people live in the eastern part of the country.  There are two seasons – rainy and dry.  It gets hot, but is mostly dry.  There is a 5 hour time difference between Baboua and Pittsburgh (at least now while we are on summer time.  They don’t have summer time because there is little difference in the length of day because it is so close to the equator – maybe ½ hour during the course of the year.  That means there’s about 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness each day.

What will you be doing?
I will be an Education Advisor for the programs run by the ELCA (national Lutheran Church in the USA).  So, I will not be working in the national schools or for the Central African government.  I will be based in Baboua.  For the first 6-12 months, I will be helping the Central Africans running the existing programs to assess them.  Then, I will develop my job/role to help them meet their goals using the skills I have.  Design my own job!  What a chance.  Watch for future blog posts for details about what the job will actually be like.

What language do they speak there?
The national African language is Sango.  I learned a little of this language when I was in the CAR as a Peace Corps Volunteer 30 years ago.  (I don’t remember much, but hope to learn more soon.  I can now say hello, give my name, count to 10 and say I am going home!)  The country was colonized by the French, so that is also an official language.  I do speak French.  The region where I will be living is the home of the Gbaya (or Baya) people.  Maybe I will be learning Gbaya instead of Sango.  Don’t know that yet!
 
Will you have modern conveniences?
Yes, but…  Baboua is a town of about 10,000, I am told.  I don’t know what is available in the town.  I have been told that the house where I will be living (provided by the ELCA) has electricity several hours a day.  I think there may be solar panels on the roof, but don’t have details yet.  The ELCA has also recently installed a satellite dish so I will have Internet access – probably when the electricity is available!  I hope to have Skype access, but have not details about that yet.  I guess I will have running water, but am not sure about that yet.


Are you excited or apprehensive?
Yes.  I am pleased to be embarking on this adventure in which I can learn a lot personally and share some of my knowledge with the people I meet there.  So, I am excited.  On the other hand, there are many unknowns, so there is also some apprehension.  I hope excitement outweighs apprehension after the orientation I will have in July (2 weeks in Toronto and 1 week in Chicago and Kenosha, Wisconsin).

Please send your comments and questions!  I look forward to having “conversations” with you through this blog.
Susan